Saturday, April 19, 2008

First time in Jodpurs

Jodphur, Rajasthan.
Rajasthan is full of forts because until the British came, everybody couldn't stop arguing with each other. The best fort we have seen is in Jodphur. I liked it for three reasons:


Sati
At the gates there are hand prints made by royal wives, princesses and concubines before they threw themselves on their husband's funeral pyres. This last happened in 1843 in Jodphur, but still goes on in India illegally today.

This is obviously terrible. I mean, if your wife throws herself on the funeral pyre, who cleans up the mess? No wonder there are still hand prints on the walls.

Not so much 'out of the frying pan into the fire' as 'put down the frying pan, into the fire'. Fortunately, it's not a concept I can see British women signing up to as they get married. "I pronounce you man and kindling" - just isn't going to work. "I'd like to propose some toast, I mean a toast". It just isn't going to catch on.

The curse
When the fort was built, a hermit had to be removed. He cursed the fort, saying it would always be short of water. Personally, as it's in the middle of the desert, I would have been relaxed about this, but management decided that for building to proceed, a human sacrifice was needed and a builder was buried alive in the foundations.

This makes today's planning regulations look relatively straightforward. All new developments are to include some affordable homes, low energy light bulbs oh and don't forget to bury one of the builders. I can see that advert in the Situations Vacant now. Sacrifice: No prior experience necessary. Ability to lie still for long periods preferred. Generous benefits, including free accommodation.

Opium
They give soldiers opium before fighting. They use it to celebrate births, deaths and marriages. They used it to celebrate ending feuds. Basically any excuse.

As this old man - complete with a gap in his beard for his opium pipe - told me this, I began to see how those involved in sati and sacrifice burying were persuaded (and have been introducing it to Carrie's chapatis ever since).

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